True Bias Roscoe Blouse + EA Sews Saturday Shorts

The Roscoe Blouse (up to 59.5″ hip) is one of the patterns that I’ve experimented with the most, over the years. When I made it in a cotton ikat for the first time, the designer, Kelli, let me know that it would be pretty big and blousy if the fabric didn’t have a lot of drape (like rayon), and she suggested that I size down. So, every time I’ve made it since then I’ve always sized down by 2 sizes (from size 10 to a 6). I also didn’t like the longer sleeves on me the first time I made it, so with other versions I experimented with the sleeve length a little bit (short sleeves & short-shirred sleeves).

This time, I made the Roscoe in my actual size (now a size 12) and shortened the sleeves by 5″ at the lengthen/shorten line. I also made the sleeve binding piece ~1″ longer since it needed to be wider to go around my upper arm instead of my forearm. I already like the length of this pattern, so I didn’t lengthen it at all (shown untucked in photo below). I’m really happy with how it turned out! I love the sleeve length and how blousy it is. I really like the way it looks tucked in too.

For this top, I was very inspired by the Emerson Fry India collection that I think I found through Pinterest. I was going for this look, but with shorter sleeves. I even have another one of their tops that I want to make similarly with another block printed fabric, so stay tuned!

This fabric is a gorgeous block printed cotton from Fibers to Fabric on Etsy. The cotton is a lot like a cotton lawn, so it’s really nice and light, but still opaque. Fibers to Fabric is an awesome shop that I’ve bought from before. I made a dress with one of their ikats (circa 2018!) and it’s still one of my favorites. They have a lot of beautiful remnant fabrics and fabrics that you can buy by the yard. They are always adding new things, so they are worth checking out and adding to your favorites on Etsy so you can keep up to date on new arrivals.

These shorts are the new EA Saturday Shorts (sizes from 34.5-59.5″ hip) and they are awesome! I’ve been wearing these so much since I finished them a couple of weeks ago.

The pattern says it’s a mid-rise short, but I think that depends on the size you make, because the rise increases as the sizes increase. I made the size 14 that has a 12″ front rise, which is high-rise on me. So, I shortened the rise on the front and back by 1.5″ to make them more mid-rise. It worked pretty well, and they are comfortable, but I’ll probably only take .5-1″ off the back rise the next time I make them for more room in the back. I don’t mind them being higher in the back, but I have tummy issues, so I can’t have them come up too high in the front.

The inseam for all sizes is 4″, so I lengthened mine at the lengthen/shorten line by 2.5″ because I like mine to be about 6.5″. It worked out great and I would make them that length again.

I didn’t make any placement changes to the front or back pockets. The front pockets came up fairly high, so lowering the rise actually put them in a better spot for me. I finished the shorts and hadn’t sewn the back pockets on yet, but pinned them where the pocket placement was originally, and it was perfect! Knowing that will make it much easier the next time I make them because I’ll be able to stitch them on before sewing all of the side seams.

The instructions were clear and easy to understand. The construction was a little bit different than other pants/shorts patterns I’ve made, but it still worked great. The instructions have you stitch the elastic to the top, fold it to the inside, and then stitch it down again. But I really like being able to adjust the elastic after it’s been inserted. So, I serged the raw edge, folded to the inside by about 1 3/4, stitched 1/4″ along the edge (don’t forget to add the back belt loop!), and left room to insert the elastic. After the elastic was the right length and sewn together, I sewed the beltloops to the top exactly the way the instructions say to.

My favorite feature is definitely the pockets on the front and back. The belt loops are also a cool feature, but I haven’t tried a belt on with them yet. I made these in a deadstock cotton twill, and it worked really nicely! They are nice and structured, but still very comfortable and stay put throughout the day.

When I started making elastic waistband pants/shorts, I got annoyed that they would slide down a lot. One thing that has made a huge difference is to stretch out the elastic before I insert in into the shorts. That’s really all there is to it. You just stretch it out really well so that it doesn’t stretch out after it’s been inserted and you’ve been wearing them a lot. It’s made a huge difference and I don’t feel like my pants are being tugged down as much when my phone or keys are in my pocket.

I really like both of these makes and I’m excited to make them both again soon. Let me know if you have any questions or comments and happy sewing! xo

And if you made it this far, here’s a bonus picture of when Vanessa came in, demanded the remote, and then kept saying, “cheeseburger!” Haha.

10 thoughts on “True Bias Roscoe Blouse + EA Sews Saturday Shorts”

  1. So cute! I bought the Roscoe pattern a couple of years ago because of the blouse you’d made… I still haven’t made it! It’s sitting in my sewing room, waiting to be made after I retire!!

    I can’t believe how grown up V is! She is darling.
    Miss you guys!

    1. Thanks Lauri! That’s so exciting that you get to retire soon! You will definitely love this pattern whenever you get around to making it.
      And Vanessa is becoming more of a little girl and I’m going to have to stop calling her ‘baby’ soon! We miss you!

  2. I hope this is one of your signature styles for you personally, because this combo is a winner on you! Looks fabulous!

    1. Thank you, Cate! You will be happy to know that it is! I really feel so comfortable in ikats and light cotton like this, and even though the print is kind of bold – it’s not at the same time. Ya know? So, I think I’m going to be wearing this combo a lot and then it’ll look great with jeans and a jacket in the fall!

  3. I love how this outfit looks on you Tori! I love the Roscoe pattern too. I have made three to date. I really like the short sleeve hack. This just might be an excuse to make another.😂
    Side Note; I can’t believe how grown up your daughter is. She was still a baby in my mind.😜

    1. Thanks Launi! It’s such great pattern! So hackable and I just can’t stop! lol. I have another button up & mandarin collar version planned next. You should post or message me a picture if you make a short sleeved one!
      I don’t share about her as much on here so that’s probably why! She is growing up so fast though and trying SO hard to keep up with her older brother.

    1. I think a lot of drafting goes into making a pant pattern fit correctly down the leg, so I personally wouldn’t. If you have an elastic waisted pant pattern that you really like, then you could incorporate the different design details (like the pockets and belt loops) fairly easily.

  4. Hi
    would cotton like a lawn would? or indian cotton? something light? i dont like rayon its hot (menopausal) and to work out the size needed for me, just measure me compare to pattern? i made a shirt once way too big for me, so maybe i need to measure the actual pattern and compare to me?

    1. Hi Elisha. A cotton lawn or Indian cotton would be perfect! That’s exactly what this shirt is and it’s super light and cool. I have made this pattern 2 sizes down from my measurements and it still fits nicely, just with much less ease. So, you could try that or compare the finished measurements to an oversized shirt that you own and like the ease of.

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