True Bias – Roscoe Blouse (Button Up, Short Sleeved)

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I have really enjoyed making tops lately, and have been thrilled with how they’ve turned out. But this shirt was on a whole new level, because I have had this fabric since June of last year, and have dreamed about it since January 2019 when Carole Rankin posted her Roscoe Blouse made with this fabric. So I was all squeals and happy dances every time I tried it on. (Fabric is by Anna Maria Horner from her Loominous collection a couple of years ago.)

My first time making the Roscoe Blouse went really well, but I decided that the sleeves weren’t really my thing. I’ve since given it to my mom and I think she wears it a lot. This time around I knew I wanted to do the button-up hack that I’ve seen so many people do, but I also really wanted to try it with short sleeves. When I saw Alyx’s version of the Roscoe, I knew I had to try it.

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I measure at a size 10 for this pattern, but went down 2 sizes to a size 6 because this is cotton and it’s more tent-like when made with a fabric with less drape (suggestion from Kelli, the designer). The pattern has plenty of ease, and isn’t too small on me at all. If you are going to use a rayon or fabric with lots of drape, making your size would work much better.

I saved my pattern pieces from the first time I made it, and I had added 1″, but then I ended up taking 2″ off at the end. So, for my 5’11 tall body, I actually shortened the original pattern by 1″. I shortened the original sleeves by 9″ — make sure to leave the curve at the hem.

Since the pattern is not normally a button-up, I added 1.5″ to the center front seam for the button plackets. To make the plackets, I folded over twice by 5/8″ with a 5/8″ strip of interfacing to fuse.

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For the neckline and sleeve bindings, I made them both a little differently. I still cut the neckline the length of the size 10; the longer neckline made it so that it didn’t gather quite as much. Since I had just made my vintage Mccall shirt, I conveniently had a pattern piece to show me how long to make the sleeve hem bands. The Roscoe has the binding shorter to go around your forearm, but your biceps are most likely larger, and they flex during the day. So I cut my sleeve bindings to be 10″ long — long enough that even if my bicep is flexed, I have plenty of room.

For the bindings, I used organic cotton bias tape from Style Maker. I’m totally hooked on this stuff. Since I’ve been trying really hard to use the fabric in my stash, and use my scraps, this has been by reward to not have to make my own bias binding, and it’s perfect.

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Last, but not least, I totally lucked out in the buttons department! I hadn’t even thought about which buttons I was going to use, and I had a moment of panic, but then I saw my black square buttons and knew it was meant to be. It’s almost like I like squares and geometric things, or something. Haha. I also decided to not start my buttons/holes until a few inches down. I’ve seen other people do the buttons up that high and they look like they weigh it down, so decided to just skip doing them up there, and I’m really happy with it.

That’s everything I have for this blouse and I already have another one planned, but this time I’m going to try shirring the short sleeves instead. Wish me luck! I even have a yard of this fabric left, so you may see it again the future.

Let me know in the comments if you have any questions, and happy Roscoe Blouse sewing!